Sightseeing...

The week before Christmas the Vivian and I went with the other senior missionary couples serving in Kyiv downtown to do some sightseeing, look for something Ukrainian to buy and to have some Ukrainian food.  In short to relax and enjoy the experience in being in such a historical place.

Golden Gate (золоті ворота - Zolati Vorota)

Yes, we are from the San Francisco Bay Area.  And yes I was surprised to find a golden gate in Kyiv.  This golden gate was the main gate in the 11th century fortification of Kyiv.  It was destroyed in the Middle Ages and completely rebuilt by the Soviet authorities in 1982.  A lot of controversy surrounded its rebuilding.  Feel free to go to Wikipedia for more information about it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Gate,_Kiev.

It also happens to be a stop on the underground subway (Metro) where we all met.

Christmas Sightings

There is a large square and promenade between two well-known cathedrals in Kyiv...Saint Sophia and Saint Michael.  While the Ukrainians do have a Saint Nicholas (Svyatyy Mykolay) more common is Father Frost (Did Moroz (Ukrainian spelling) or Ded Moroz (Russian spelling).  Father Frost is always seen in the company of his granddaughter the Snow Maiden (Snihuronka).  And sometimes they are seen the company of guys like me from America...

I have no idea who the bear is.  He just jumped in at the last second. 

Saint Sophia's Cathedral

We just saw the outside of the cathedral.  On another visit we will go into the cathedral and many of the other buildings that are part of the cathedral grounds.  It was founded in 1011 AD and represents Byzantine architecture.

Saint Michael's Cathedral & Monastery

This cathedral was built in the 12th Century and is at the opposite end of the plaza from Saint Sophia.  This cathedral can be seen from the Dnepro River high up on the hill from the river.  We were able to go inside the cathedral but did not take any pictures.  We had to take off our missionary name tags, the men had to take their hats off and the women had to cover the heads with their scarves.  If we didn't there was a monk there to remind us in a very clear and emphatic manner.  The art work was beautiful, lots of gold inlays.  I'm not really up on the Byzantine period nor the Eastern Orthodox Church.  If I was I think more of the art work would have been understandable.

Nevertheless it was worth going inside to see.

When we came out the bells were tolling...it was just before noon.

Saint Michael's Cathedral & Monastery behind us.

Entrance to the cathedral

The bells...oh the bells!

Memorial Wall

You are probably aware Ukraine has been battling Russian-backed separatists who would like to align themselves with Russia rather than Ukraine.  The New York times referred to this conflict as the "not-war."  This conflict/war started in 2014 and is still going on.  The conflict is happening in the Donbass region of eastern Ukraine which includes the Donetsk and Luhansk oblasts.  Over 10,000 people have died during this conflict.

Near Saint Michael's Cathedral is a memorial wall of those who have died.  The title above one of the panels of the wall (see picture below) says "Service men and law-enforcers who died for the unity of Ukraine."  This was very sobering to view and think about.

Before 2014, the Church had the Ukraine Donetsk Mission.  A nephew of ours served his mission there.  After the conflict began the missionaries were removed from the area and the mission was closed.  A new mission now operates in eastern Ukraine - Ukraine Dnepropetrovsk Mission.  There were two very strong branches of the Church in Donetsk and Luhansk.  Since the conflict began the separatists have taken over the Church buildings.  The Church members meet in small groups in their homes (usually apartments).  Group leaders have been set apart to hold Church meetings, partake of the sacrament, perform baptisms and other ordinances.  The mission president provides priesthood leadership.  There is much more I could say but that will have to wait until I return home.  Suffice it to say the members of the Church in this war-torn area are very faithful, strong members of the Church and followers of Jesus Christ.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Ukraine

The picture below shows the Ministry of Foreign Affairs building.  This building is next to Saint Michael's Cathedral opposite the Memorial Wall.

МАТРЁШКА (Matryoshka) - Ukrainian Nesting Doll

We were taken to a vendor stand down the street from the Foreign Affairs building that deals in all sorts of Ukrainian stuff.  The guy who runs the stand knows the missionaries very well.  He deals with a Ukrainian artist who does the hand painting on these nesting dolls.  The picture below is our first souvenir purchase.  A nice nativity to add to Vivian's burgeoning collection.

Food Vendors - Farmers Market Style

After sightseeing and souvenir shopping it was time for lunch!  Between the two cathedrals various food and beverage booths were set up  by various food vendors.  All of the food was Ukrainian style.  It all looked very good.  I settled on a stand that sold roasted meats, vegetables, mushrooms (my favorite) and other tasty food items.  Next to the stand (picture below) was a vendor who sold various types of hot drinks.  I settled on hot coco.  Vivian and I got pretty much the same thing - roasted pork or beef, roasted potatoes, roasted mushrooms and I added roasted tomatoes.  It was more than lunch...it ended up being our dinner and perfect way to end our outing before heading back to the Metro to go back to our apartment.

Our food vendor was nice enough to pose for us.  The sign on the left - mulled wine; the sign on the right - barbecue.  The aroma coming from the stand was heavenly.

The ladies who lunch together from left to right:  Sisters Vivian Foley, Joyce Haldeman, Karen Bingham and Merrilee Andrus

What a contrast...

I saw the two buildings in the photo below on our way back to the Metro.  I thought it was perfect to see the contrast of new versus old...left and right!

Perfect Day...almost

We had a great day seeing the sights with these wonderful other missionary couples.  I mentioned earlier in this blog about riding the Metro.  You have to experience it rather read about it to really get an idea.  Suffice it to say that in a city of 2.5 million people it can get very crowded in getting all those people around using public transportation.  You have to get use to being squished together so tight that all rules of privacy get thrown out the window.  When Vivian and I travel we often get separated.  People get off the Metro but people get on and pack themselves in.  We are always traveling through the transfer stations in center Kyiv where the bulk of the passengers get on and off.  Think of riding BART in San Francisco from Embarcadero to Civic Center at the height of commute times ..only worse!  Below is a picture that I took of Vivian.

Why, you ask am I discussing public transportation at the end of this blog?  Well, one of the big risks in Kyiv is being pick pocketed.  It's been almost 5 months and I've been very careful.  Especially on crowded buses and subway trains.  On the way back to our apartment we were stuffed onto the subway.  As I was getting on the train I was being pushed from behind with other people until I almost lost my balance.  I didn't fall though because there was no room.  I was kind of semi-horizontal.  When I got my feet back on the ground I check my pockets as I always do...NO WALLET!!!  Yes, I got pick pocketed.  Fortunately the thief dropped my wallet on the floor on the way out of the train at the next stop.  My wallet had credit card and two debit cards.  Boy was I lucky.  However he did get away with 2,000 Hryvnia (about $77).    How I did not feel him I'll never know.  My wallet was buried in my front pocket covered by my winter coat.  So...I can check this off my bucket list.  I had never been robbed before.  I came 9,000 miles for the experience.  Thank you very much!  It was very disheartening to have this happen.  I did feel violated.  But I got over it quickly.  I just decided not to let it get me down.  I only hope that the reason for stealing my wallet was because he had some poor nephew to feed.

Merry Christmas...С Рождеством!

Christmas Thoughts

As I pen this blog it is almost evening.  It's been dark for an hour.  Vivian is in the kitchen putting our Christmas dinner together...FAJITAS!  What did you expect...a Christmas ham!  She's making tortillas from scratch.  This is quite a feat since some ingredients she's use to having in the U.S. are not available in Ukraine.  She will have to tell you all about it.

Elder Lundquist and Elder Hatch, who live in our apartment building, will be joining us for dinner.  It will be a very low-key affair.  Their primary purpose is to come and use our computer to Skype with their families this evening.  They are limited to 90 minutes each.  If I remember correctly when our boys where on their missions they were limited to 30 minutes for their Christmas phone call...no Skype available then.  Although I do remember one long-distance Christmas call from a distant country exceeding the 30 minutes limit.  For those curious about this please feel free to contact Mrs. Jenny Foley of Benicia, California.

This Christmas has been and will be different from any of the last 45 for us.  I was feeling very blue about the whole thing yesterday but found my spirits lifted this morning as I felt the Savior's love for me and experienced one of those tender moments.  After doing my daily reading in the Book of Mormon I started to get ready for the day.  I streamed the First Presidency Christmas Fireside for 2017 as background.  As I listened to the messages and the music the wonderful Mormon Tabernacle Choir I slowly felt my heart being softened.  As I knelt by my beside I felt the tears streaming down my face as I contemplated Heavenly Father's great gift to us all - He sent His Son to earth to redeem us and to bear our burdens.  As I prayed I felt the burden of homesickness being lifted from my shoulders replaced with great joy in knowing I have a loving Brother who knows me, cares for me and understands me.  What a wonderful Christmas gift that keeps giving and giving.  I love Him and know I can never repay Him.  All I can do is serve Him by serving the people Ukraine in sharing his love and concern form them.  

Christmas in Ukraine

This is the first time Ukraine will have December 25 as a national holiday according to the Gregorian calendar.  They have now joined the majority of the Christian world, including Europe in celebrating Christmas on this date.

Ukraine has always celebrated Christmas on January 7 according to the Julian calendar and will continue to honor that as a national holiday as well.

Ukrainian President Petro Poroshenko wished the Ukrainians a Merry Christmas, saying he is going to celebrate Christmas twice, today and on January 7.

Christmas Happenings

Vivian and I have been kept very busy with a variety of activities...

• Thursday, 12/21 - Elder and Sister Bingham hosted the other three senior missionary couples and President and Sister Kumferman, in an evening of food and games.  We ate street tacos until we could eat no more (corn tortillas from U.S.).  Wonderful desserts (chocolate tort cake with ice cream).  Sang Happy Birthday to Sister Kumferman.  Played a new card game introduced to us by the Haldemans (Five Crowns).  Had a great time and then called it an evening.  
• Friday, 12/22 - Vivian and I took the Metro to Ocean Plaza Mall for dinner at the Food Court and window shopping.  Had Chinese noodles and warm Cokes (they don't serve the drinks over ice here in Ukraine).  Saw a lot of beautiful stores (high end and expensive) and a lot of beautiful people. 
• Saturday, 12/23 - participated in the Kyiv Stake Christmas Concert.  We sang with the choir - Deck the Halls (in English), a Ukrainian Christmas song (in Ukrainian) but I don't remember the name and Silent Night (also in Ukrainian).  There were a lot of others in the concert, mostly young men and women and children.  There were many talented musicians and it was a wonderful evening.
• Sunday, 12/24 - Combined Sacrament Meetings with the Kyiv Branch-English Speaking and the Borschahivskyi Ward (Ukrainian speaking).  The meeting was conducted in both Ukrainian and English, the prayers, sacrament prayers and congregational singing all done in Ukrainian.  The sacrament meeting service was reading scriptures and text about the First Christmas ( the temple senior couples did this in English).  Also to compliment the reading/scriptures were various musical numbers including from the Primary (3 girls and their teacher).  Vivian and I sang with the senior missionary choir.  I also got to sing a duet with Elder Hahn, a senior missionary working in the temple.   In the evening we called Mark and his family and enjoyed reuniting with them and sharing some of their Christmas spirit.  I had been feeling quite blue but the phone call picked up my spirits. 
• Monday 12/25 - Christmas Day.  Opened our group gift from our family - a wonderful Shutterly photo book entitled "Foley Grandkids 2017 Sweet pictures for sweet grandparents".  What an utter thrill to get this heartfelt gift.  This is a gift that will keep on giving throughout the coming year. We miss them all so much.  We then went to the Borshahivskyi Ward for a Ukrainian lunch and Christmas program.  Very nice way to spend part of Christmas.  Vivian made a tossed salad for 50 people; two other senior sisters also did so the salad was for 150 people.  We then went back to our apartment to get ready for Christmas dinner with the full-time elders who live in our building.  Vivian served fajitas with home made flour tortillas.  It was great.  The elders took turns using our laptop to Skype with their families.  It was fun to see their excitement and their parents' joy in reuniting with their sons.  They left at 10 pm then Vivian and I Skyped/Facetimed/Google Hungout with the remaining Foley sons and their families.  What a joy it was to see them all and share in their Christmas.  We finished with them about 12:45 am, the day after Christmas.  I then called my brother Craig who was enjoying Christmas with his family in California and my cousin Darlene who lives in Coupeville, WA on Whidbey Island who was working at the Coupeville Inn on Christmas Day.  

Pictures for those of you who managed to hang on until the end...

A winter wonderland outside our window

The 7 days before Christmas we had three days of snow giving Kyiv a very nice White Christmas

Our apartment.  We live on the 5th Floor

Here come the Christmas trees

And the word is out...more trees for Christmas

When will the trees stop coming...

Happy Family.  Toddler getting carried and tree gets the ride on the sled.

Senior couple missionaries - tacos, Five Crowns and lots of laughs...

Elder and Sister Bingham hosted the Kyiv senior couple missionaries and the Kyiv Mission President and his wife at a Christmas party the Thursday before Christmas.  Although the pictures are not so great I believe they capture the joy of the evening...

Above are Elder and Sister Haldeman from Las Vegas.  They are dynamite Humanitarian Aid missionaries.  As you can tell they are the life of the party.  There were no lamp shades to wear but who need them?

Above, on the couch President Kumferman (Ed) with Sister Kumferman (Karen) to his right, Sister Haldeman (Joyce) on the left with back to camera, Elder Bingham (Dr. Brent)to the right with his wife Sister Bingham (Karen) partially hidden.

Above, Sister Foley (Vivian) on the right, Elder Haldeman (Steve) to her right, Elder Andrus (Rolfe) with back to camera and Sister Andrus (Merrilee) to his left.

The Kyiv Ukraine Stake Christmas Concert

Vivian with a new little friend, Yuri.  He's wearing a traditional Ukrainian shirt

Primary Children.  For my LDS friends notice the stage.  It's the stand in our chapel.  The benches are not bolted down.  They just moved all the benches to the cultural hall, brought in the light and sound system and viola!  You have a performing stage.  One of our senior missionaries was having a hard time digesting this kind of use of the chapel.  We just told her "Welcome to Ukraine."

Look at all the recorders and the director with the drum.  I particularly liked the music stands...colors of the Ukrainian flag.

 I particularly liked this picture.  Very colorful.  Very Ukrainian

 I posted this picture particularly for my good friend and vocal coach, Ron Pickett.  Quite a voice for this little girl.  Her face reminded me of my granddaughter, Maggie.

 I loved these wonderful missionaries letting their hair down and having some fun.  The elder on the right and his companion were accosted at knife point the next evening while talking to people on the street.  Too bad.  All that was lost were their missionary name tags.  Fortunately they were not hurt but pretty shaken up.  The Lord looks out for these fine young people who are selflessly giving of their time and talents and their love for the Ukrainian people.

 Christmas 2017

Bishop Gakalenko, Borschahivskyi Ward welcomes us to the Christmas Day meal and program.  I liked Ukrainian shirt he's wearing.

 A view from the back of the cultural hall.  If you look closely you can find Vivian in the crowd

 There she is with other senior missionaries...Andruses at the head of the table with Sister Bingham in the foreground, right.

 President Kumferman and his daughter, Maggie, sang a duet as part of the program.  A real treat.  He is just a great man and so willing to give everything he has to his wonderful missionaries.  Plus, he speaks impeccable Russian.  He's a professor of Russian at BYU Idaho.  Go figure.

 Elder Lundquist from Alpine, Utah
Elder Hatch from Clinton, Utah

These two elders are examples of the fine missionaries in the Ukraine Kyiv Mission.  It was a real pleasure to have them spend their Christmas evening with us.

If you look hard you can see me in the dark shadows of this Christmas tree in front of Ocean Plaza in Kyiv.  It's still the Christmas season in Ukraine until after January 7.  

 "God bless us, every one!" 

Can't Get Away From Black Friday

Thanksgiving is not celebrated in Ukraine.  Way to state the obvious.  Right.  But we found out today they are into Black Friday just the way they are in the United States.  Today Vivian and I spent a nice afternoon and early evening in Kyiv.  We met a senior couple, the Humphreys, who are serving as Church History missionaries in our mission.  We've done things with them before and it is always an enjoyable time.  This morning they called us and wondered if we'd like to meet them in the city; they were getting a little cabin fever and wanted to get outside for awhile.  We jumped on the opportunity.

We rode the tram to the metro station to a stop in a historical part of the city.  We had a nice, leisurely lunch/dinner in a very nice Crimean restaurant.  Very good food.  We then took a trip on the metro to a very large shopping mall - Ocean Plaza Mall.  It is huge.  We stopped in the food court for a nice treat at Cinnabon.  A great food court.  We'll go back there again.  I looked for a new printer.  The one I inherited is pretty old and requires a lot of hand holding.  Plus it is not wireless so it's impossible for Vivian to print from her Surface Pro.  We walked the mall for awhile.  Very high end shops.  There's a Levi Store here.  I've lost so much weight since I've been here my Levi's are way to big for me now.  So, now I know where I can go and replace them.

I've included some pictures to enhance this post.  Hope you all enjoy them.

By the way, we did have a "thanksgiving" dinner yesterday.  We attended a zone conference with the two Kyiv zones - about 50 missionaries plus the senior couple missionaries.  After the conference was over we gathered together in the cultural hall for dinner. The chicken and mashed potatoes were catered and the senior couples supplied all the side dishes and desserts.  No pumpkin pies though.  Maybe Vivian can weigh in on why there were no pies.  Also, no turkey.  There are turkeys in Ukraine but they are mostly wild and no breeding or cultivating of the butterballs we are used to in the United States.  It was nice to get together as we envisioned our extended families in the United States gathering together 7 to 10 hours later to have a traditional Thanksgiving.

I've included some pictures of our outing today.  Unbelievable but I didn't take any pictures yesterday.  Cannot believe I didn't get any!  Oh well, always next year.

The Humphreys and Vivian

Heading to the Crimean restuarant

The Food Court...cinnamon rolls in the bag on the table

Self explanatory - 1

Self explanatory - 2

Inside the mall

We are leaving the mall...notice the crowd on the left entering the mall.  It's 6:00 pm

I did get one picture on Thanksgiving.  The cleanup crew...Sister Karen Kumferman on the left (Mission President's wife), Vivian and two of the many sister missionaries serving in the Kyiv Ukraine Mission - Sister Brekke (lower right).  I forget the name of the sister in the background.  I'm sorry.  She is from Kharkov in eastern Ukraine, called to serve in the Philippines, currently assigned to the Kyiv Ukraine Mission until she gets her visa.  

A Change In Seasons

Look at what greeted us this morning as we looked out our apartment window...

We have been expecting this for a few weeks and finally it is here.  We've prepared as much as possible.  Below is evidence...

So, new experiences ahead.  Transporting ourselves through snow as we go from place to place.  Should be a lot of fun!